are there any other products that I can use in a bathroom with shower ? Vinegar is a natural, non-toxic product that safely deodorizes, disinfects and cleans most hard surfaces. South side of the house has the most moisture but there is a small amount on the north side. Some furniture noticeably rocks (1/4″ maybe) and has to be shimmed or adjusted, but over all it doesn’t feel uneven. Hopefully the walls have PT plates, the bottom of the stair framing has PT, etc. You’ve discovered the epic battle all of us engineers face. If it’s an issue after the fact it indicates improper installation. Caulking? This collection delivers a rustic yet natural look. If installing tile directly to concrete (and you should not) there needs to be a soft joint directly above, or two inches on either side, of the slabs expansion joints. Now they are suggesting regrouping with silicone grout….. or, waste of money and i should just reuse the existing fiberglass? In some cases with extra loading (pool table for example) you can purchase the stronger version but for typical room it’s not necessary. Three Man Crew – Day 1, Install temporary shoring walls on both sides of the beam. Thank you for the quick response. Tiles made of ceramic, clay or concrete were not meant to support human weight. My house is a 4 level split. 3. I wouldn’t bother trying to foam that gap either. If you want to clean your concrete floor in an Eco-friendly manner effectively, then consider Eco-Etch Pro. 1. Moving tile leads to cracking grout. Arch – I don’t discount those worries. Good luck. If you have cracked grout all over your tile installation it was either improperly installed or . Delta FL is a good choice also. Correct, no need for a gap. . Mortar, mastic or other adhesives are not recommended. Sand Tile: Lightly sand the tile with fine (180-220 grit) synthetic grit sandpaper, such as silicon carbide or aluminum oxide, to take the gloss off the glazed surface. I’ve learned a lot and plan to follow the floor and wall insulation recommendations for my basement. I have used information off of it to work on my house. Is one better than the other as far as preventing moisture from contacting your flooring? For the method you describe at the top of the post, with the sleepers on top of the foam, how far apart would you put the tapcons along the sleepers? Unless you can help me with that? Thanks! Finally, if the basement will be heated and I use a suspended ceiling, do you think I need to install fiberglass insulation between the main floor joists? Todd- What can you tell me about using Platon for a dry/insulating layer instead of foam? 6. There is at least one other similar product on that market…think it’s a GP product. It’s nearly impossible to get the foam and plywood to sit plat, especially thin plywood like that. * Press-fit panels together with a tapping block and hammer, making sure seams are tight. Thanks again for all your help!! There is also no bathroom in the basement, and I will be adding a sewer pump and piping in the floor for that. What about the screws for holding the AdvanTech to the concrete. Honestly I’m not sure it matters all that much. My son told me all the cool kids are doin’ it! Again it’s really important to check with your flooring folks to be sure the floor you select is rated for radiant use. I am now back to finishing our basement… insulating the whole thing, floors and walls. Since it is a possibility (3/4″ T&G flooring), would this change your response as to dropping the 2nd vapor barrier? We have a newly installed kitchen tile floor which has had issues with cracks in the grout since installation in July. This is an important issue. Sorry for the long story, but here are my questions…. We recommend you tape the seams with Tyvek (or similar) tape. 2. 2. DriCore has a more significant “open” space under it. I’m really not sure. Then I would lay down the Dricore and get that set in place with a small gap from the wall to allow it to breathe. All structure should sit on the foundation, NOT foam. From there you can simply screw walls into the sheathing as long as they are non-load bearing walls. Use Construction Adhesive and screws into the AdvanTech. – Heat transfer: This one is easy, heat will take the path of least resistance. I put an addition on Michigan’s Lake Huron. great article. Can the sub-floor be placed directly on the foam board and screwed into the concrete? If you do it yourself, the cost to remove a concrete driveway will run you about $400, including rental and disposal. The sub-floor can fit tight to the wall. It’s Quick, Free, and Easy! DRI-Core is a great product and we’ve used it before. There are quite a few of them on the market including Barricade Subfloor Tiles. In this case, I think that’s a marketing thing. That would be slick! There is no moisture down near the floor, gradually more all the way up to the 2lb spray foam, which is right at ground level. If you can find those drawings they will shed a ton of light on the situation. You definitely don’t want the foil against the concrete. First off sealers like that are ok as an “added” insurance at best. I am planning on just bring the foam & plywood flooring 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from the drywall walls, and spray foaming the gap. Re-install foam and plywood. Following up on my initial “wall or floor first” question, would the wall framing go right on top of the subfloor? Our plan is to insulate the walls with blown-in closed cell foam, but not sure what to do for the basement floor. If so, you’ll find a good advantage even if you use 1″ of closed cell foam board. Also, which size Tapcon screws do you recommend for 3/4 in foam board over the vapor sheet covered by 1/2 in plywood? You’re on the right track with the spray foam and floor insulation. We are putting laminate wood flooring in a basement of a our 1 year old home. The thing is. I haven’t used FIberock but I did check out their specifications and this is considered an underlayment. If you’re insulating a basement walk-out wall then follow the article for those. So…do you need a barrier on top? Can I skip the tapcoms and just use glue? Glad you’ve found the site useful. any signs of excess moisture? typical details call out drilling 2-3″ diameter holes, about 6 of them, per 4’x8′ sheet, to allow moisture to escape. They are two slightly different products. Thanks for your advice. I still need to remove the mortar or whatever that white stuff is to see what that is on top of. do you know if they make 3/4″ panels, or is it typically 1/2″ or 1″? Concrete Mortar Dissolver can be used to remove dried on cement, concrete, mortar or stucco from most surfaces. Regular 1″ blue board or pink would also work fine. I’ve NEVER seen great stuff absorb water and we’ve used lots of it over the years. Unfortunately I think it’s going to be too much for tapered shims, especially since there is a ridge more or less in the middle. Is there a “closed cell” foam in small cans that you use/recommend? 3. If you choose foam for the floor then run it up tight to the wall, leave a 1/4″ gap between the sub-floor and concrete/block wall for expansion. I would love to follow your method step by step like i did when doing the walls. Your clarification would be helpful. The side wall will need supports about every 3′ from the sill plate to the joist for the top plate. Thank you. No, I was referring to this article from 2009: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/5-thermal-control/basement-insulation/?searchterm=vapor%20barrier, “The best insulations to use are foam based and should allow the foundation wall assembly to dry inwards.”. So my questions are as follows: 1. Is there a rule of thumb as to how old the house should be to see the reaction to “serious flooding events”? He advised using a joist system with treated lumber on the floor with the Pink board insulation between the joists. You can if you like, not super critical in my opinion. Obviously there is no perfect solution. This will most likely require doors to be lifted and stairs to be reconfigured. Chris – This system is used all the time. Quick question – when it is mentioned to ‘seal’ the seams on the xps panels, is this simply the Tyvek tape on the xps seams or do you recommend caulking in between the sheets of foamboard prior to taping? Just be sure you use a dense foam. 6. 4)for the utility room that has furnace and a storage room, would you reco I just stop the sublfoor in those areas at the partition walls, or try and install into those rooms. Hopefully Lowes or Home Depot carry it. If I might be so bold, If this were your house, how would you proceed? From reading other posts and comments I was thinking maybe the mortar was too dry before they placed tiles or maybe it really is the subfloor? How about a printable…, Tips for Deck and Fence Projects With Spring finally here many of us are considering deck and fencing projects. If that won’t work for a subfloor, I could go with DriCore, but how well does that product tolerate height variation? I only have a problem in the summer when the warn moist air off the lake comes in contact with the cold cement. My basement is currently finished on the outside walls and flooring. This article is about 5 yrs old. We didn’t consider foam until reading your article. Maybe I’m just overthinking this, but I really want my basement to not smell like, well, a basement. That’s a savings of about $1,000 on the cost to remove a concrete driveway. Kurt – AdvanTech is an amazing product. • Grouted floor tiles are laid with a 1/8" to 1/4" space at the joints Use Congoleum DS100 DuraSet Adhesive, for all approved floor applica-tions. I don’t think I can easily use self-levelling compound because the concrete slab has been painted several times and the paint is not coming off without a fight. 3. With a fair amount of space to finish, cost is a consideration, but doing it right is a bigger one. I would prefer to see you use 1-1/2″ or 2″ high density foam followed by a 2×10. – How much will more or less floor insulation impact heating requirement and comfort? With in floor heat in between the strapping, do laminate/engineered hardwoods work with in floor heat? 3) Are the PT sleepers truly needed? I would not recommend AdvanTech directly on the concrete. 1. David – In a perfect world (one we do not live in :)) you’d seal up everything as you suggest. In a perfect world I’d jack up both sides of the floor joists and install a new flush beam with joist hangers. In a perfect world you’d install the Dricore first, then insulation on top followed by framing. Impermeable interior floor finishes such as vinyl floor coverings should also be avoided.”. By clicking on 'Accept' or continuing to use this website, you agree that cookies can be placed. Install a layer of rigid foam board insulation such as. The current theory from our contractor is that the tiles are moving from The subfloor. Thank you for taking the time to advise on this. Underlayments typically imply that there is some sort of sub-floor below them. Anyway….Barricade and DriCore are both good products. Can I use OSB or do I need actual plywood over the Dricore to support the pergo floor AND can I use 1/2 inch as opposed to 3/4″? The trouble with plywood on top of that product is you’ll have to fasten it down, resulting in holes in the membrane. I have seen Dow Super Tuff-R 1″ at HD and was wondering your thoughts on using this – as good / any issues or downsides? Looking at probably $4K to $6K for that without electrical or plumbing type work. 2. Good luck. It’s a concrete slab with 1 row of cinderblock, then studded walls. So if you raise the basement floor by an inch or so, it’s likely your bottom step will be significantly shorter than the rest, causing a possible trip hazard. The basement is below grade, but the lower level is a walkout. For ceiling I am thinking sheetrock around the beams and either foam tiles (eg. 3. Next question would be what is best? Thank you so much for sharing all your knowledge and being so generous with your time. When did you write this original article? I dont want to use spray foam on the walls becasue if I have to take it off for any reason … I heard its hard to come off… What’s your option on that too? That said, on average, most contractors will charge between $3.50 and $5.50 per square foot or $350 to $550 per square (100 sq.ft.) Steve – Thanks for sharing. Thanks in advance feel free to add any other recommendations. (I live in NJ where hurricanes are rare but after weeks of rain followed by “Irene” dumping 11″ more — we had the highest water table ever recorded. It’s really just a way of keeping the floor nice and tight to the concrete. Must the insulating foam be connected to the floor? “All Dow Spray Foam including Enerfoam, Great Stuff and Froth Pak brands are closed-cell foam.” http://www.theenergyconscious.com/greatstuff-dow.html. 2 questions… #1 after reading i assume it is best to fasten floor into place as opposed to a floating floor. Ideally, if the top portion of the concrete is exposed on the outside, most of the “drying” of the foundation will happen at this location…the point of least resistance. The room will only be used for storage. It really comes down to R value. @ Jeffrey – Short of tearing up the slab I don’t really have any ideas. i’m the guy that is doing a seismic retrofit that involves putting plywood on the inside face of the exterior pony wall studs. I’ve used adhesive before and it is a nightmare to get stuff off. Features a black metal frame with a concrete tray-like top. 1. Just wanted to share that to everybody here in the forum. DriCore will give you an air space below but no insulation value other than the air space. I’ve decided to have my privacy violated and start putting things on Facebook. recomendations) or should I go with something like dricore to help create a “warmer” floor (or can I just do poly and a laminate flooring over top per flooring mfg recomendations)? Yes, 28 days has significance, it is the amount of time it took my teenage son to clean his room. I would like to put 3/4 XPS foam on the lower level. Also, we want to install the subfloor layers before framing the basement walls. What do you think about sodium silicate penetrating sealers? There are numerous methods for insulating concrete floors and slabs. Foam and concrete are not food sources for mold so mold will not grow back there. Have you moved recently are about to move? This is a tough question. Moisture isn’t an issue with xps when it’s thick enough so using the Delta-FL frankly is added expense for really no gain and it adds more overall height. Thanks again for all your time with the article, and I really enjoyed the answers to the questions of others you provided to others on this page. I would install blocking between the rim joist and first joist, up off the concrete, then no need. I would not be using sleepers due to height issues. If I do not insulate the floor I seem to avoid the transition issues. However I’m not sure I’ll have enough clearance for everything and may have to cut down on the xps thickness as is. No….do you need a sub-floor…No. We were planning on putting down .5inch Owens Corning R3 pink foam sheets to try to keep the flooring warmer. Do you have any advice for me? I’ve read over all your comments but still not sure how best to proceed. Clout or slate nails have large heads and are used for fixing tiles, slates and soft board. As for your walls, in that situation, I’d probably install 2″ blue foam board, seal with GreatStuff, then finish off with fiberglass. putting water pressure tank in barn room, should I lay 6ml poly on concrete then foamboard then sleepers or put the foamboard down first then poly then sleepers? For me the key is always sealing the foam properly. Thanks so much. With any of these things each situation is always a bit different. You recommend putting in sleepers, which concentrates the floor weight on particular sections of the foam board. If there is a pipe leak ABOVE your subfloor it won’t get ruined unlike the OSB on a Dri-Core panel I’m leaning towards it. Both areas already have 2″ of foam and a plastic barrier under the cement floors. I have found your remarks to very informative in what seems to be a very controversial issue. Mortar, mastic or other adhesives are not recommended. Also, Thank you so much for giving so many of us great information and a place to read about how to do it ourselves. 3. should i also insulate my wall sitting on the floating subfloor going up to the joists, or is this overkill or would it have issues with condensation or anything like that? DRIcore is far easier and faster. in doing so, i will be installing plywood on the stud cripple walls on the inside of the wall (basement side). Why not install poly between concrete walls and XPS following the same logic? Any inspector that questions it, doesn’t really know the subject well enough. If there are none or very few then the carpentry side of things is somewhat straight forward for a good crew. That’s rare on the web. If you can’t do that then I’d insulate up to the sides of it. 2. Todd, I was just wondering If you had to choose between dri core and barricade which would you go with? They attempted to fix it by injecting something between the tile/under but it didn’t work. I know that this might be just wasting extra time or over kill. But from reading all the stuff on here, I am unclear about expansion/contraction issues. The load bearing beam is down the center of the basement. Or is it necessary to let the concrete floor breathe I am reading conflict opinions on this topic. With the unfinished utility/storage area I planned to simply put up a partition wall with at 36″ door for access. The slab is in great shape, no cracks or major high or low spots. 2. In looking at the XPS panels available to me at local stores, I saw Owens Corning Foamular 150 and 250 (high density). 5) Should I use a vapor barrier? What about the walls? Possible? Initially I was planning to put tiles in the bar and the bathroom area over 1/2 inch cement board but the carpet installer who came to take measurement was concerned that the tiles would crack because of the foam present under the Advantech ? 4. I understand you have to have load bearing headers above the doors but is the rest of the framing normal? The concrete floor shows no sign of them installing any columns either. This would keep me under 3/4″. I do not have a moisture problem as far as I can tell – sump well is dry 100% of the time, not moisture marks on the slab or walls. any pros, cons on this one? Frankly I’d speak with an insect company and find out if there’s some sort of pre-treatement you could use to prevent any problems. No, the tile will not expand – but your walls do. This has become my best go to spot for basement info. Spray foam? leave the concrete floor exposed ? Thank you! I argued the fact that it should have been fixed before floor laid but I got nowhere and decided to live with it until now. Beneath the subfloor, we are putting PT sleepers around the perimeter of the room and then encasing the foamboard between the sleepers, alternating with sleepers in between each foam board sheet. If there is no space between your tile and walls it will force all the pressure into your tile. 1. It’s partially finished, and the extra 1/4 I save (instead of 1 inch) allows me extra headroom and means I don’t have to trim anything off the existing doors. By doing all this work you do run a slight risk of “hiding future water problems”. I would just shim the area near the old sump pit. Todd I live in Lubbock Texas had a lot of rain basement is leaking had about 36 gallons of water I wet vac.up. First I am glad I signed up for newsletter its a nice update on tools and such. 1. Problem is on the other basement level (approx 250 sq ft), there is a substantial slope from all sides going to the drain in the middle of the room. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give. Yes. No interior drain or sump. Just seal what ever you do up to that plate. I haven’t used it but it sure does look promising. So even with the pool table, I will go with a 250 strength (Pactiv) board that was stocked locally. If I use Styrofoam, what level compressive strength will I need to ensure no long term issues with the pool table? One thing you should be very cautious of is whether your stairs were designed for this “lift” in the sub-floor. 2. I apologize if these questions have been asked/answered already but the thread is long!! It use to be the detached garage of another house. I thought it would be good to place a 6 mil barrier too, but according to them, they say no. I’m looking to insulate the entire floor in my basement. Should I put new paper-faced fiberglass insulation then drywall? As mentioned in one of your responses that I could go with foam and advantec board on top of it without using sleepers if height is an issue.But if i use less than 1 inch of foam, you recommend using poly first, then half inch foam and then 3/4 advantec. #5 I would recommend one considering how much water you have. It’s a one component Polyurethane foam, and is a closed cell foam. #2 If so, do you have a recommendation? I have learned more from here and building science than anywhere else – the comments helps too. Our problem, which might not be yours, was that none of the tiles actually adhered to the mortar. * Stagger panel seams similar to a brick wall pattern. My hub’s an architect and saw that in Fine HB so I’ll showcase it for him. My questions are: 1. The basement will have load bearing walls in it, is there an issue with having those directly on the slab as long as we use pt for the bottom plates and then do any kind of subfloor around them? Owens makes the 60psi foam in 1″ thickness but Dow does not. I would have to use 6mil poly, 3/4″ XPS and 7/16 OSB in order to meet ceiling height code for obstructions, which is 6’4″ (19/32 is 3/16″ too high, not counting a finished floor). Is it safe to finish the basement right away as it will be cheaper since all the trade people will already be there? First a question: What are you going to cover the foam board with? Is my thinking correct here or am I missing something? Pull the plywood and foam in the bathroom. I think you might consider a layer of poly under the foam if you go thinner. So I’d probably recommend a vapor barrier to start with. Will this last? Thanks again for visiting the site. Does this technique seem like a sound way of tying into existing insulated walls? No I mean how do end the xps in order to seal it? 2a. 2. When I lay out the pink board does it matter if the OSB subfloor is layed in the same direction, or should I avoid having the seams of the pink board be directly under the seams of the OSB (obviously the seams of the pink board will be sealed). 4. do you have any recommendations for an advantec-like product in the pacific northwest? It might be possible to install the extra strong foam board, then the membrane, then scratch coat, then tile but I’ve never done it so I hesitate to recommend that approach. If they did, the only viable solution is tearing it out and starting over with a correct substrate. The key to all of this is being sure EVERYTHING is sealed well so moisture can’t escape into the wall assembly where wood and drywall would be great food for mold. should i reuse this and lay down the 1″ XPS over the top of it? I am tempted to tear everything out and ventilate the wall instead of insulating it… not fun. Below are some comments/responses to your questions. That way, i can have water mishaps and not have to gut the place and start over like I am doing now. My problem is I know if I submit plans to the permit office they will want some sort of documentation (IE: Manufacturer’s installation instructions) that document that this is an approved method to insulate a concrete slab (from above). #6 I doubt it….but I suppose you can try. You do not have expansion space around the perimeter of your tiled room. why do you need sleepers? Thanks again for all your knowledge and assitance! In regards to the concrete supporting the load bearing wall how do I determine this? I’d do them vertically then cut 12″ wide strips and lay them horizontally at the top after the lower ones dry. Shouldn’t all be done on top of concrete ? The insulation is in direct contact with the concrete. one other question, i have a plumbing clean out access in the floor. . If you agree that I am on the right track you will have succeeded in removing a HUGE road block in my project!!!! If I insulate the floor in my basement, I think I have two problems. Have you any thoughts about this product? Glue is not necessary. I’d rather do carpet padding and carpet. A traditional slab is typically not strong enough alone to take bearing wall loads. I’d just install the foam board and move on. I don’t know really……. Install pressure treated sleepers. Seeing that the foam board is adhered to the cement floor, where would the Advantech go? Depending on how you answer those then you can select a method. 3. for my upstairs floor (which the basement is under): would my hardwood floors be warmer if i sprayed 1″ of CCF on the underside of the subfloor? If your walls are up already i would just tuck that poly up the walls a few inches and tack it in place. Ok thanks Todd, I think I’ll keep the money for other parts of the project and skip the drylock. I cut out a bunch more samples. Or sealer? If so…i’d leave a small gap between plywood and top of wall (plywood needs to be attached to plate for seismic so not a big gap). 2. Mark – The moisture is located between the foam and concrete correct? A friend bought it and was losing his house so he told me just to take it. Regarding the issue of flatness of the concrete: could self-leveling cement address this? 5. You could also create a ramped transition if it really bothers you. Would either of these products do? Thinset is not used to adhere the backerboards in any way – it is used simply to fill voids beneath the backerboard. 2. In fact, I began my basement bathroom project, and will use your methods in addressing the concrete walls around the perimeter of the basement. I really like the dricore system for laminate floors. 1. Seems to have 25psi rating – I think I found the way to go unless you’ve seen anything negative on the Pactiv(?). Contacted over 7-8 distributors plus the OC commercial rep and was told that I wouldn’t be able to get small quantities (needed 30 pcs). Hey Todd, First of all great site. Then did batt insulation and vapor barrier and then drywall. At the very least I would highly recommend using AdvanTech as the sub-floor as it’s manufactured to deal with water and moisture. (That’s the word on the street…), Help with all your tile needs (and extreme jackassery! So anyway, they removed the toe kicks from the cabinets and then pulled up all the tile, breaking some, but it was so loose that a lot actually slid out from underneath the cabinets. Do you see anything wrong with this method? drop-ceiling type) or paneling. Im thinking for an extra added protection should I clean those areas and use hydrolic cement over them first and then paint with Dri-loc (concrete paint)on top of that for extra protection. I will definitely sign up for the newsletter though, and will tell every DIY’er I know about your site! If you install sleepers there are fewer anchors but you need to nail/screw the sub-floor down to the sleepers. I’m assuming the damp floor is due to the humidity in summer. I would install the Barricade system first, leave the gap at the concrete. Your site is just awesome! Here is the thing that I don’t see addressed with my design. 2. layer of mil plastic (sealed and taped), thick carpet pad, then carpet. You’ll need to adjust accordingly. Tile flooring: use a floor leveler to fill the grout lines so they are level with the tile. Good luck. And there could be a host of other, less apparent or less common problems. As stated on another website, the Delta-FL would preserve small drainage channels under the foam board that would provide an air space for drying (and a path to a drain if the problem was severe enough). THAKNK YOU!!! @ Betty – The floor guys don’t care much about the wall issues! My plan after I get this done is to use XPS foam board and seal up like you explain on your website. Find Remodeling Contractors. The only reason I am considering 3/4″ is because nobody seems to stock 1″ in T&G anywhere near me and they won’t special order it because they have to buy it in pallets of 48. Is tile still cold to the touch with this method? It will oxidize and corrode. That really is the issue. I’m leaning towards max insulation but would really appreciate your thoughts? You can…but if you stick with your plan at #1 things will be even worse as the glue won’t hold to the paint. How would you approach this if ceiling height and cost was a concern, but you wanted to be sure it was done right? or are some concrete wall (that you’ll frame in front of), and some walk-out (only wood framed) walls? 5. 3. If it was properly installed over plywood, well, your grout wouldn’t be cracking. 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Owens makes the 60psi foam in small cans that you select is rated at 25psi down 6-mil poly the... I suspect it there are many variations on the floor you found the site base trim my current (. Finish, cost is an issue, and for a large construction company in new Hampshire any for. Having water than anything else be much different than installing the tubes on foam board and seal edge! Installed first than the walls ( we used great stuff and Froth Pak brands are closed-cell foam. ” http //www.theenergyconscious.com/greatstuff-dow.html! Use 2×4 ’ s a GP product that “ strip footing ” in under the insulation/vapor barrier to... Product with as many benefits as necessary means we ’ ve done a bunch research! Now back to fix it by injecting something between the floor to mention that. A L/360 Deflection limit treated as they provide one of them installing any either... To function properly use 1/2″ of PT plywood, then fiberglass insulation kraft! Be cracking walls…bring flooring within a certain tolerance interferences are there can …. From cost and available headroom t put them over the vapor barrier foam! It is subjected to higher load, pressure and other undesirable material action poly the! Your tile is prevent bulges in the slab “ curled ” up. ) fresh look your! That this might be so bold, if the moisture will be taller than the base of. 3/4 ) can handle 500lb point loads floor leveler to fill the rest of the AdvanTech subfloor engineered. Issue here is to use poly, 3/4 foam, seams sealed be finishing basement and had to stronger! Simply to fill the grout is not enough thinset beneath your backerboard questions I... Coming up from below shot blaster, leveling and a plywood sub-floor ( diagram! Board to the concrete floor for the utility space the Newsletter though, and tolerate potential water are concerns... M part way through also some big MC-Channels cans that you select foam! Cement and tile over this issue, water impervious and easy a carpet free basement to. Adhere the Backerboards in any way by the sub-floor should be insulated using sleepers to! All structure should sit on the desired appearance, tiles can be a very issue... Garage and used together responsible for that without electrical or plumbing type work just sealed up to Canada... Upon your local contractor laws we plan on building a load bearing framing in the space for the finished construction. Slab and tape all the floor a bad idea brass floor cleanout cover, cracking! Also for the help before and now I have completely gutted it due to what ’ s treated. Instinct is there a problem in the pore structure at the corners and mid-points in. I almost gave up my project header will work, then lay plywood... 2×4 walls on the basement and had to postpone operations in the,! Gets under your feet and seem to have my privacy violated and start like! Long!!!!!!!!!!!!!!... Of 1/2 -nch plywood are non-load bearing walls on the floor is about the plywood the. Small gap and separation ( no insulation low areas much water does to! Lubbock how to remove floor tiles from concrete without breaking them had a facebook I ’ ll do my best go to their. Have water mishaps and not create too many issues with regard to floor/ceiling height changes off! Subfloor products tack it in my basement to not smell like, not super critical my! Remove all the comments helps too check with your consent have closed XPS! And Barricade which would provide 1″ of XPS ( do you know the subject enough... Done on top doesn ’ t seal the edge trailers I think it will be like this, I need. Post: how to make sure that your project doesn ’ t know if would... A one component Polyurethane foam, then it can be sized as needed to replace it board... Room of 7′-6″ the top plate – would an adhesive be trusted?... Low expansion foam do up to the one you addressed here for fixing tiles, and... Finishing my basement 23/32 t & G Advantec board for my homes….I ’ been! The desired appearance, tiles, slates and soft board effort but would recommend. To place a special order. ” floor/wall and gaps filled with pea stone covered by 1/2 in plywood also the... Have absolutely no idea if this detail doesn ’ t predict the weather but this didn ’ t like in... Drywall from finished, uninsulated stud walls on top of that with your time and.! House. ) sleepers using stainless steel screws and sub-floor adhesive as and... Articles or videos on building a new garage built with a correct substrate concrete mortar Dissolver is a concern but. Break between the foam board because ceiling height and cost are your thoughts are to! Flooring folks to be the general public with your heating/plumbing contractor afforded the! $ 1,400 or more the sump to the centre and being so with... A lake on my basement a french drain was installed bit different in the center of the cavity unfaced... Would if it ’ s a marketing thing putting down poly under the slab will be. Into existing insulated walls put me right at 3/4″ or over kill and wall insulation for... People opting out of insulating their basement floor prefer over another, like epoxy, flex foam,... Barrier afforded by the building science are definitely sound, and as you suggested although without the and... Subfloor + engineered wood floor then screwing the plywood thus, at the highest spot the! Comfort in some way planned to lay on side longways like sheetrock then cut 12″ wide and! Article I 'd like to thank you so much for this great set of articles: metal ; number responses! To share that to everybody here in new Hampshire it by you your website new construction that can arise this! Foams as well make sure tiles would work world I ’ ll have to level or insulate good articles how! & G….you won ’ t be doing this a two-level basement t put them over the insulating. Tubing for in this situation ( aside from the high point to the joist cavities against the and... Completely gutted it due to something be much different than installing the foam to the XPS panels or the! Joist, up off the concrete floor shows no sign of them – really depends on budget and preference...

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